The Reserve

I am a sceptic when it comes to dining at award-winning, raving-reviewed restaurants. Which is why I instantly rolled my eyes when I was told that a booking had been made for The Reserve at 7.30. Having recently won The Age's New Restaurant of the Year and Young Chef of the Year awards, it is a piece of Sydney situated on what some people term as Melbourne's iconic equivalent of the Opera House. Quick digression - I think Federation Square is a hideous (albeit technically operose - to which I attach great respect) piece of work, and I've never been able to find my way around the place (the signs, when present, make no sense). Anyhow. I'd read about the plush turqoise brocade banquettes, savoury ice-creams, the gutsy 24-year old chef. It's all true. We went with the recommended Journey Fare - starting with 3 surprise entrees from chef George Calombaris, followed by a main of your choice.

E1: Venison carppacio topped with raspberry ice-cream and potato fritter. Childhood memories of Macdonald's fries dipped in chocolate sundae. Venison was beautifully tender, ice-cream delicately flavoured.

E2: Crayfish risotto. This is the only time I've enjoyed crayfish. When dad was running the seafood business we had fresh produce every day, but the taste of crayfish never appealed to me. Pure tasty goodness.

E3: Braised pork belly served with G&T jelly and champagne foam. The next time I have a dinner party I'm making G&T jelly. The pork was succulent with Asian flavours (think char siu sauce), but didn't quite have the fall-off-the bone tenderness I was hoping for.

M: Crispy skin salmon steak with salmon roe and lentils. A fat steak, and cooked right through - which is always a surprise. I often order salmon without actually feeling like salmon. I like the idea of salmon, but can seldom manage it after an entree (let alone 3). I was more smitten with my companion's cannons of lamb.

D: No meal is ever complete without dessert. I was incapable of fitting anything else into my stomach (which, at that point, would not be sucked in, despite my desperate attempts at maintaining a lady-like appearance on this first date). We had a pistachio creme brulee and liquorice pudding served with warm vanilla milkshake to share. Absolutely divine. The brulee - creamy, with subtle hints of vanilla bean. The waiter had suggested that we pour the milkshake over the pudding (I only agreed to try the pudding at all when I was assured it didn't taste like liquorice) - perfect for cold winter evenings.

The service was attentive and friendly - the latter earns more stars in my books because I loathe the typical cavalier-type waiting staff you often get at chi-chi restaurants. The menu is whimsical and I appreciate the effort that was put into the copy. It was a 8.5 dining experience. I urge you all to try it sometime.

Posted by e at May 26, 2004 03:51 PM